an ohio boy travels the world with msf

Sunday, October 16, 2005

Bangkok Skyline


Bangkok Skyline
Originally uploaded by paulbrockmann.
For those who've not yet read the long text entry I wrote a few days (which appears further down on the blog), I've just (on Saturday the 15th) returned from a week in Bangkok, which was mostly for a seminar with MSF, but I tacked a weekend and another free day to see the city. On my last day, after the class, I was able (thanks to Tony's car and driver -- yay, Tony!) to tour a bit of the city with the teacher from our class, a very interesting French woman of Tunisian ancestry who's worked with MSF for a while now, currently on this project and previously on Tsunami relief in eastern Sri Lanka among other things. To get a view of an older Bangkok, we rented a small motorboat for an hour's tour through some of the smaller canals that have not (yet?) been paved over. This shot shows the skyline from the main river, which is a very busy shipping and commercial channel.

Bangkok Waterfront Life


Bangkok Waterfront Life
Originally uploaded by paulbrockmann.
This man was clearly at work on his boat -- I'm not sure what his work is, but it's tied to the river. Please note that he's in the middle of a metropolis of 8 million people that's really quite modern and very polluted...but as you'll see in some of the next shots, the Bangkok of canals and rivers still seems to run at a slightly different pace than the one of the streets and shopping centers.

Spirit Houses


Spirit Houses
Originally uploaded by paulbrockmann.
It seems every (Buddhist, at least) home in Thailand has a spirit house just outside. These are to attract good spirits, and keep the unfriendly ones at bay. Of course the stilt houses in the canals are no exception -- it's the mini-temple looking thing in the upper right side of the shot.

Boathouse Detail, Wake Spray

I liked the details on this little boathouse; you can also see the spray from our boat's wake in the photo, telling you a bit about why the photos's

blurry. :-)

Laundry on the Line


Laundry on the Line
Originally uploaded by paulbrockmann.
Along the canals you see grand and glorious houses, small shacks, and everything in between. They all have in common the laundry hung out to dry. None of that anglo-saxon discomfort with laundry here, nor the waste of energy when the sun dries the clothes much more ecologically!

Festival on the Water


Festival on the Water
Originally uploaded by paulbrockmann.
In the water, you will see many things that are NOT pollution. This was a festival -- religious, and Chinese focused, I think. The boats with white-clad people in them were all taking off from a nearby temple -- not the Church in the background here, but another Buddhist temple slightly upriver. It appeared they were throwing things in the water, and then many young men in small boats were swimming over to retrieve whatever was being thrown in. I believe this was tied to the same festival that brought the dragon dancers out to the river, which you'll see in the next shot. To my knowledge, dragon dancing is very much a Chinese thing, and not indigenously Thai. Thailand, of course, has a very substantial and influential community that is ethnically Chinese with very long roots in the Kindom of Thailand.

Waterfront Bangkok


Waterfront Bangkok
Originally uploaded by paulbrockmann.

Waterfront Bangkok


Waterfront Bangkok
Originally uploaded by paulbrockmann.

Grand Palace & Emerald Buddha Temple Complex

More about this stunning waterfront complex in the next few shots.

Temple of the Emerald Buddha

In the heart of Bangkok, and also at the heart of Thai Buddhism, is the Temple of the Emerald Buddha/Grand Palace complex. Thai people are largely recognized as very warm and welcoming, and usually playful and fun-loving, people. There are two things they take very seriously and do not joke about: the King, and their religion. The emerald Buddha is a rather small but beautiful statue of unknown antiquity, which resides high up in the main temple here. He resides high up in the temple to emphasize his importance in the religious life of the nation. The king himself changes his seasonal attire: there are different robes for the rainy season, the summer and the winter. In later shots at Ayuthaya, you'll see that robing statues of the Buddha is a common practice in Thailand, one that I found really quite appealing and -- sorry if I offend -- almost cute.

Emerald Buddha Temple


Emerald Buddha Temple
Originally uploaded by paulbrockmann.
If you look at the top left here, you'll see little wind-chime bells hanging from the roof. They create a steady and constant music as you walk the grounds. They no doubt have a spiritual significance (scare away bad spirits?), but they're also aurally enjoyable. On the bottom left you'll see some lions guarding the entrance; a few shots later you'll see the main temple guardian, a big scary monster kind of guy.

Emerald Buddha Temple


Emerald Buddha Temple
Originally uploaded by paulbrockmann.

Emerald Buddha Temple


Emerald Buddha Temple
Originally uploaded by paulbrockmann.

Jim Thompson House


Jim Thompson House
Originally uploaded by paulbrockmann.
Strange as it sounds, the Jim Thompson house is a main tourist site within Bangkok. An American stationed in Bangkok during WWII, he stayed after the war and became well known for virtually saving the Thai silk industry, by introducing it to fashion houses in the West. He also collected many lovely works of art, and toured the provinces buying threatened old traditional Thai homes, deconstructing them and then rebuilding them on his grounds in Bangkok. After his death, the grounds have become a great place to learn more about traditional all-wood Thai architecture, and see beautiful art and

gardens.

Jim Thompson House


Jim Thompson House
Originally uploaded by paulbrockmann.

Jim Thompson House Roof Detail

Notice the very steep and deep overhanging roof here -- no doubt a very useful architectural detail during the monsoon rains, some of which I experienced while in Bangkok. Reminded me of the rainiest days in Nanning.

Gardens at Jim Thompson House


Ayuthaya - Ancient Capital


Ayuthaya - Ancient Capital
Originally uploaded by paulbrockmann.
Sunday, my second day in Bangkok, my friend Tony had booked a wonderful full-day tour for us to Ayuthaya. (Thanks again, Tony, for everything -- if you're reading this!) Ayuthaya was the capital from 1350 to 1767 or something like that -- so at least by Chinese standards, it's not so much ancient as old. But it's definitely very impressive and beautiful, and one learns a great deal about Thailand by reading this. (The city was attacked and sacked by the Burmese, for example.) The Emerald Buddha Temple/Grand Palace complex you saw earlier is modeled after one of the temple/palace complexes here in Ayuthaya, since Ayuthaya represented a political and cultural high point in Thai history.

Ayuthaya - Among the Ruins


Ayuthaya - Among the Ruins
Originally uploaded by paulbrockmann.

Ayuthaya - Among the Ruins


Ayuthaya - Among the Ruins
Originally uploaded by paulbrockmann.

Ayuthaya - Among the Ruins


Ayuthaya - Among the Ruins
Originally uploaded by paulbrockmann.

Ayuthaya - Among the Ruins


Ayuthaya - Among the Ruins
Originally uploaded by paulbrockmann.

Buddha at Home


Buddha at Home
Originally uploaded by paulbrockmann.
This statue is inside one of the stupas (I think that's what it's called...not really sure whether the different architectural styles have different names) shown in the various shots -- up the steps you'll see shortly.

Flowers on the Steps


Flowers on the Steps
Originally uploaded by paulbrockmann. These steps lead up to a room with a Buddha statue inside. I climbed them...see next photo.

Ayuthaya from the Heights


Ayuthaya from the Heights
Originally uploaded by paulbrockmann.
I've only posted this photo since it shows the river in the background and you can get a sense of the lay of the land. I'm at the top of the steps shown in the prior photo, which are pretty darn steep. The dumb look on my face is 'cuz I was trying to do this dumb "help me, I'm falling thing."

Big Buddha at Ayuthaya


Big Buddha at Ayuthaya
Originally uploaded by paulbrockmann.
This statue resides in the new temple you've seen in the background in some of the other photos - it dates from the 1950s, as does I think the Buddha himself.

The Temple Cat


The Temple Cat
Originally uploaded by paulbrockmann.
This little guy was snoozing in the sun on one of the ruined stupas the whole time, and woke up just as I was leaving, to gaze into my lens...made me miss my beloved Kona even more than usual.

Bang Pha In Palace


Bang Pha In Palace
Originally uploaded by paulbrockmann.
Just outside the old city of Ayuthaya lies a small island where a future King once met the love of his life. After becoming King, he renamed the island in honor of meeting his love, and began a project his heirs furthered of turning the island into a royal palace compound. It's a lovely complex with a widely varied mix of architectural styles: here you see Thai and Neoclassical revival juxtaposed. In the next set you'll see closeups of the "Chinese" style - many of the elements were crafted in China ad brought here for assembly. The truth is, the roof in particular is a bit more ornate and upward-reaching than any Chinese roof I've ever seen, though I can tell it's trying to be Chinese. Maybe it's what Chinese artisans of the 19th century thought a Thai King would like?

Chinese Style at Bang Pha In


Paul at Bang Pha In Palace


Paul at Bang Pha In Palace
Originally uploaded by paulbrockmann.

Bunnies at Bang Pha In Palace


Chao Phraya River


Chao Phraya River
Originally uploaded by paulbrockmann.
Ayuthaya and Bangkok are both on the Chao Phraya river -- Ayuthaya perhaps 100 kilometeres upstream from Bangkok, and Bangkok less than 100 kilometers up from the Gulf of Siam. We took an early morning bus up to Ayuthaya, but took a leisurely lunch cruise down the river coming home. We saw dozens of children swimming in the river and jumping from trees down into the river;we saw temples and places of worship that we lost count of. We saw the life of a river that's clearly a vital link in the life of this part of the country. Here you see a lovely boat that I think is used for tourism; in later photos you'll see other boats for more blue collar uses, and various shots along the main river upstream from downtown Bangkok.

Life on the Chao Phraya


Life on the Chao Phraya
Originally uploaded by paulbrockmann.

Life on the Chao Phraya


Life on the Chao Phraya
Originally uploaded by paulbrockmann.

Life on the Chao Phraya


Life on the Chao Phraya
Originally uploaded by paulbrockmann.

Places of Worship


Places of Worship
Originally uploaded by paulbrockmann.
Though Thailand is very predominantly Buddhist, many Muslims also live in the country, especially in the south. After this mosque, you'll see two more shots of Buddhist Temples seen from the river on our cruise home. Note the riverside houses in the foreground, in the one shot -- these are right on the main river, not on the small canals shown earlier.

Temples and Homes by the River


Temples and Homes by the River


Bridge over the Chao Phraya


Bridge over the Chao Phraya
Originally uploaded by paulbrockmann.
Mom, these are both for you. :-)

Bridge over the Chao Phraya


Bridge over the Chao Phraya
Originally uploaded by paulbrockmann.
Mom, these are both for you. :-)

Friday, October 14, 2005

Tales from Thailand

A week in Thailand has provided an opportunity not only to access my blog directly so I can see things I send in are appearing (remember I can't access my actual blog to see how it looks from within China...), but more importantly it's given me the chance to take stock of my eventful year so far. So herewith, some all-text capsules from Krung Thep (city of angels, the Thai name for Bangkok).

Once Upon a Time
A guy named Paul studied Chinese language and history in college, lived in Taiwan for a school year and had the time of his life. While he was in Taiwan, he had good friends in northern Thailand, southern India and Indonesia...but did he make use of this precious opportunity to visit these places most American kids who grew up in southern Ohio never get anywhere near? Nooooooooo. Instead, he decided he had to rush back to the US and finish school: after all, junior years abroad are supposed to a junior year, not a couple of junior years...or so he told himself at the time. So back to the rat-race he rushed.

Post-college lack of funds, indecision about what grad school major to pursue, whether or not to hop accross some ocean again ASAP or to get more training or education or life experience before doing so...coupled with a sense that perhaps the US would be an OK place to live for a time after all...added up to that classic post-college choice: move in with Mom. This led to a job in order to have something to keep himself occupied and out of trouble. A job led to a career in publishing, which led to the reality that some folks reading this blog (if anyone from PPG still checks it -- Beth, Dale, anyone?) only know Paul the corporate VP. Ah but don't we all know in our hearts that virtually everyone we meet harbors depths and hidden selves we might never dream of?


Getting Stale?
Paul's hidden selves started reasserting themselves when he found that he no longer enjoyed his day job as much as he once had. The bike ride along the beach to work was wonderful; working with some of the people in the office or some of the clients could be a great joy. But he did -- twenty or more years down the road from the brash youngster who scorned such philosophizing -- find himself wondering what the point of it all was and whether, indeed, there might not be something more out there.

He remembered that he, in fact, KNEW that there was more out there since he'd already seen a lot of it! Life being what it is, he also realized it's never really too late to try again. Off to MSF went his application to be a non-medical volunteer. The only good news he got on the American election day, 2004 was that MSF wanted to interview him: this was better than the outright rejection he'd received from UN Volunteers, for example. And, as news went, far more appealing than the idea that an American electorate that went up in arms about undisclosed felatio had reelected a liar whose lies were (and still are) killing Americans and Iraqis on the other side of the world.


Starting Anew
And so began the whirlwind that have been the last 11 months. Much of the story is told in blog entries from February and March, and I've found myself revisiting those entries -- and memories -- here in Bangkok: both because I can (see my blog, that is), and because what I'm doing here ties directly to the initial training I took in Paris and Bordeaux back in March. I wrote then about the focus MSF, especially MSF-France, is putting on better tracking, training, development and management of our national staff. And about the fact that they'd just created a custom, proprietary software to allow them to better track all the more than 5,000 national staff working in our projects in more than 35 countries around the world. In our class, we were exposed for one morning to a pre-release version. That was March and it was still pretty full of bugs and things to be worked out.

Since June, they've been rolling it out. This being MSF, spread all over the world, yet committed to trying to do things right, they brought a former volunteer on board for nine months to complete the rollout project. She's been traveling the world since June, doing one-week seminars in many of our sites, training people and slowly starting the ball rolling to get all of these employees and their skill sets and work histories with MSF into one uniform database. Bangkok has been her last stop, and I've spent the last four days learning the software and applying it to all of our national staff from our projects in China.

I've also been meeting my counterparts from our missions in Cambodia, Burma/Myanmar, and of course Thailand, as well as several national staff adminstrative assistants and assistant administrators, and learning more about our projects in those countries. It's been a tremendous week: the pleasure of learning a great new tool that'll really help me do my work; the joy of being in a new city (and the first brand-new country for me this year: for all my travels, they've all been countries I'd been to at least once before) that I've heard so many great things about over the years; the pride in how interesting my colleagues are and what an interesting set of folks tend to be attracted to MSF.


Second Chances
On a personal level, though, this trip reminds me how blessed life can be, and tells me I've really been given a second chance. All those friends I didn't visit, all that time I didn't spend traveling Asia as a youth (when most Americans have the relative freedom from obligation to do so), have haunted me on occasion. When I decided to ditch the day job and hit the international NGO circuit, I also relished the opportunity to use my languages: and kicked myself at the thought that during my 20 years in corporate America I virtually let all three of my foreign languages shrivel on the vine.

And now, presto-change-o: In Bangkok I'm staying in the home of my old friend Tony from New York Front Runner days. Finding him again and catching up on his world travels as a hotel marketing professional over the past 15 years has been one highlight of the trip. Using my French and realizing that, indeed, at this point I can pretty much say anything I need to say, often rather complex thoughts, in French -- is SUCH a joy! That I have, on company time, spent a week 1) learning the streets and sights of Bangkok by night; 2) learning a new software that apeals to my inner geek; 3) using my French extensively; 4) seeing an old friend I'd been out of touch with for more than a decade; and 5) renewing my pride in and commitment to MSF by learning about out malaria projects in Burma, our TB and refugee health projects in Thailand, and our AIDS projects in Cambodia...all the while pondering my own next steps in MSF (extend my current post when my year ends next March; take a new spot, hopefully in Africa, etc.) in conversations with our trainer who herself has had a varied and interesting MSF career (including tsunami relief fieldwork in Sri Lanka this spring)...well, it rather takes my breath away, to be honest.

I suppose you get the message. I feel rather blessed and tickled pink that I get this kind of chance, again, in my life: and that I can now bring to bear for the benefit of this great organization all of the skills and abilities I developed in that business career. Oh, and my brother is coming to Beijing three days after I return home tomorrow!

So for those of you who only want pictures: there'll be lots from Thailand, perhaps as early as Sunday if I get them up in time. Then there'll be Steve's and my vacation pictures: I think we're going to do a Yangtze cruise through the three gorges, before the river fills them all up. Keep your eyes open!

Wednesday, October 05, 2005

Beijing: Temple of Heaven


Beijing: Temple of Heaven
Originally uploaded by paulbrockmann.
October 1 is National Day here in China, and in honor of it most folks get the week off. We've closed our office for three days, and though I've done a bit of work I've also taken advantage of some clear weather and a more relaxed schedule to explore the city a bit and meet some new people. Yesterday (October 4) I went to the Temple of Heaven (Tiantan), a large park with one of the most famous temple complexes in the city. Following are many photos of my impressions of this park on a lovely fall day during a week when most people aren't working. This photo shows the Vault of Heaven, as seen from the top of the Altar of Heaven.

Temple of Heaven: Circles and Squares

In the cosmology that built this temple, heaven was round and earth was square. So circles and squares are repeated all over the temple complex, as are lucky numbers like nine. (As it happens, also my birthday. Hmm.) Note that here we have a circular mound -- altar of heaven -- surrounded by a round wall, surrounded by a square wall.

Gate to the Altar of Heaven


Gate to the Altar of Heaven
Originally uploaded by paulbrockmann.
OK, so I know I go a bit overboard with doorways and gateways sometimes. I hope you don't think it's WAY too heavy-handed. They do frame things nicely though, you gotta admit.

Temple of Heaven - Under Construction :-)

It being Beijing -- heck, it being China -- not even the Ming-Dynasty highlight Temple of Heaven complex (which, my guidebook tells me, some view as an even heavenlier [grin] example of Ming architecture than the Forbidden City) is free from scaffolding. I'm told the building being refreshed and renovated here is the highlight of the temple complex...but no one other than the workers (and, one assumes, high officials...) can get in to see it until next April. Oh well.

Gateways at the Temple of Heaven


Temple of Heaven


Temple of Heaven
Originally uploaded by paulbrockmann.

Temple of Heaven


Temple of Heaven
Originally uploaded by paulbrockmann.

National Holidays at the Park

With the National Holiday here, flowers sprang up all over the city last week, usually in the national colors of yellow and red. This impressive display did a good job is disguising the fact that what should be steps up to the entrance of the Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests are closed, due to reconstruction. The beauty of the flowers did dull some of the pain of knowing that no one can visit the hall until late April, next year!

Paul at the Vault of Heaven


Paul at the Vault of Heaven
Originally uploaded by paulbrockmann.
I wasn't planning this one, but several people asked me, as I sat and pondered the meaning of it all, to take their photos (always fun to hear their halting English until the realized I could speak Chinese). So I finally decided I might as well ask one guy to return the favor. Here's the result. Note the coke can: it'll come up a few shots later on.

National Holidays at the Park